Awards

Wine critics reviews

2023:
Senior Editor Stuart Pigott made an important discovery when he tasted a range of wines from the Gurdau winery in the South Moravia region of the Czech Republic.

It is often supposed that the wines of Eastern Europe are trapped in a vicious cycle of poor quality and difficult sales, and sometimes that’s true. But for a long time in the Czech Republic it was easy sales of unremarkable wines to tourists that held back the development of the wine industry: acceptable quality plus good distribution in Prague was all you needed.

Stuart said he had always asked himself where the daring and exciting Czech wines were, and now we have the answer in the latest Gurdau offerings.

Gurdau's impressively expressive and precise dry whites. The most remarkable of them is the Gurdau Riesling Moravia Stará Hora 2021, a dry Riesling that reminded Stuart of a top Wachau wine, but with fresher acidity. Still very young, it is brimming with lemon blossom, Amalfi lemon and chamomile aromas, concentrated and impeccably balanced with excellent precision at the extremely long finish.

The succulent and vibrant Gurdau Pinot Blanc Moravia Vinohrádky 2021, meanwhile, has so much good energy, and is extremely aromatic (white pepper, dried flowers, aromatic apple and sliced pear) with excellent concentration for the medium body. So Gurdau is a winery with a triple focus.

Although it was founded back in 2012 by Zdeněk Hort and Marek Sedláček, the winery has recently been transformed by the completion of an innovative winery building designed by Aleš Fiala. It not only houses the winery but also apartments, wine bar and offer private fine dinning experience.

2024:
On his way to Austria for two weeks of deep submersion in the wines of the Alpine republic, Stuart made a brief stop at the Gurdau winery in the Czech Republic’s Moravia rgion. Founded by Zdenek Hort just over a decade ago, this project is all about rediscovering high-altitude hillside vineyards that fell out of cultivation in 1945, and the ambitious team of manager/sommelier Marian Nemec and winemaker Marek Sedlacek, plus the owner’s son, Vasek Hort, have made a slew of highly original wines from the last vintages.

The most amazing of these is an exception to their focus on dry whites. The Gurdau Riesling Moravia Venice Kurdejev Cibéby 2021 is somewhere between an off-dry German auslese and an Alsace vendange tardive. It is extremely focused and refreshing with a driving mineral that beautifully underlines the tense interplay of natural grape sweetness and dazzling acidity.

Reviewed wines

Riesling 2017

score: 93/20

A nice, sweet, rich, honeyed Riesling with a medium to full body, very good balance and some interesting chalky complexity in the long, gentle finish. Drink or hold.

Riesling 2021

score: 94/20

A Czech dry Riesling revelation! Stunning nose of lemon blossom,Amalfi lemon and chamomile. You can really taste the inspiration of the Wachau inAustria in this full-bodied, concentrated and impeccably balanced white, but this isnot an imitation. Excellent precision at the extremely long finish that’s simultaneouslysilky and intensely mineral.
Hard to predict how this will age, but it’s certainly been made for long aging. Drink orhold.

Riesling 2021

score: 97/20

This late-harvest style Riesling has a dangerous energy and limey acidity that may be too much for some, but I find it very exciting. So incredibly focused, with a driving minerality that beautifully underlines the tense interplay between grape sweetness and dazzling acidity. Limited production. Drink or hold.

Pinot Blanc 2020

score: 92/20

You could easily mistake this silky, medium-bodied dry white for a very good Alsace wine. Plenty of ripe pears and a nice citrusy freshness are married to quite a creamy palate. Everything fits together very neatly in the very harmonious finish. Drink or hold.

Veltliner 2020

score: 91/20

An excellent interplay of lemon and lime zest freshness with white pepper and fresh sage gives this Czech Gruner Veltliner a lot of appeal. Medium-bodied with just a hint of bottle maturation. Zesty, bone-dry finish. Fermented and matured in stainless steel. Drink now. Screw cap.

Riesling 2021

score: 93/20

Finally a daring wine from the Czech Republic! This vibrantly youthful dryriesling is brimming with fresh herbs, white tea and chamomile aromas. On the palateit has a bladerunner balance of racy acidity and stony power right through the steelyand crystalline finish.
Drinkable now, but best from 2024. Screw cap.

Veltliner 18 & 20

score: 93/20

This bold and highly structured Gruner Veltliner is seriously spicy with a touch of oak, plus notes of dried herbs and lentils. Compact and pretty concentrated, with bight acidity that makes this come alive on the full-bodied palate. Bold and refreshing finish. A cuvee of the 2018 and 2020 vintages, the older vintage of which spent 18 months in a large oak barrel. The younger vintage was matured in a large acacia barrel. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Pinot Blanc 2017

score: 94/20

This Czech dry Pinot Blanc is maturing beautifully, the interplay of richness and freshness so exciting. I love the waxy character and the delicate touch of caramel that so deftly complement the restrained citrusy freshness. Then comes a splash of garden herb freshness in the long finish, in which ripeness and brightness are so well matched. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Veltliner 2021

score: 93/20

Here’s an exciting Czech Gruner Veltliner with the kind of complexity we expect from this grape in its homeland on the Austrian Danube. Stacks of white pepper, dried flowers, aromatic apple and sliced pear on the nose. On the concentrated, yet only medium-bodied palate there’s a wealth of white pepper character and white currant fruit, then a super-clean and precise wet stone finish. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Riesling 2022

score: 94/20

Although this dry Czech Riesling is barely medium-bodied, it has a terrific spicy and herbal complexity and notes of bergamot and Amalfi lemons. Expands considerably as it aerates in the glass. Long, graceful finish with a wealth of herbal and licorice nuances. Fermented and matured on the lees in stainless steel. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Pinot Blanc 2022

score: 94/20

This Czech dry Pinot Blanc has a wonderful citrus blossom charm, then the richness and structure on the medium-bodied palate come as a real surprise. Very long, dense, nutty finish, yet here too there’s a wonderful delicacy. Drink or hold.

Veltliner 2022

score: 94/20

This is a very serious Czech Gruner Veltliner with a wealth of quince and white pepper and a haunting touch of floral honey. Stunning interplay of restrained richness, fine tannins and supple acidity that keeps this gently moving over the medium- to full-bodied palate. Long and structured yet smooth finish. 24 hours of skin contact, then fermented and matured on the lees for nine months in Slovenian oak barrels. Drinkable now, but best from 2026.

Veltliner 2022

score: 91/20

I like the delicate aromas of oranges, white pepper and summer meadows that pull you into the sleek and medium-bodied palate of this expressive Gruner Veltliner. Zesty acidity and a wealth of herbal character in the crisp finish. Fermented and matured in stainless steel. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Pinot Blanc 2021

score: 93/20

A sophisticated dry pinot blanc with aromas of spring meadows, crisppear and chamomile. At once succulent and vibrant this has so much positive energy,the finish bursting with cool climate crispness. It easily carries the tiny touch ofunfermented grape sweetness on the mid-palate.
Drink or hold. Natural cork.

Riesling 2017

score: 91/20

Quite a toasty nose (some will say petrol), but this has excellent depth and structure, the restrained citrusy acidity lifting the ample fine tannins and quince fruit. Drink now.

Riesling 2022

score: 96/20

The lone star of Czech dry Riesling shines as brightly as many of the great dry rieslings of Germany, France and Austria. Terrific lemon zest, stone fruit and honeysuckle complexity. Concentrated, but only at the upper limit of medium-bodied, the minerality beautifully interwoven into the wealth of delicate fruit aromas. Great length and purity in the finish. Drink or hold.

Veltliner 2021

score: 89/20

Plenty of green pepper and reine claude plum character, plus a touchof cassis here. The cassis is more prominent on the crisp, yet round medium-bodiedpalate. A shade on the tart side at the finish. Drink now. Screw cap.

Riesling 2020

score: 92/20

This dry Riesling is brimming with fresh pineapple and ripe nectarinearomas, plus a wonderful juiciness on the medium-bodied palate. However, the bestthings about it are the racy acidity, stony minerality and very clean slightly smokyfinish.
Drink or hold. Screw cap.

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Winery news

5.6.2023

Gurdau wines celebrated in the world as well. James Suckling review

"i always asked myself where the daring and exciting Czech wines were, and now we have the answer in the latest Gurdau offering"

"...the most remarkable of them is the Gurdau Riesling Stará Hora 2021, a dry Riesling that reminded Stuart of a top Wachau wine, but with fresher acidity.

Although Gurdau was founded back in 2012 by Zdeněk Hort and Marek Sedláček, the winery has recently been transformed by the completion of an innovative winery building designed by Aleš Fiala.
It not only houses the winery but also apartments and wine bar. Private fine dinning experience is on offer as well. Gurdau is a winery with a triple focus. Riesling. Veltliner. Pinot blanc.

Gurdau Riesling Moravia Stará Hora 2021
Score: 94 Points

Gurdau Riesling Moravia Vesnice Kurdějov 2021
Score: 93 Points

Gurdau Riesling Moravia Vesnice Kurdějov 2020
Score: 92 Points

Gurdau Pinot Blanc Moravia Vinohrádky 2021
Score: 93 Points

Gurdau Veltliner Moravia Vinohrádky 2021
Score: 93 Points

Gurdau Veltliner Moravia Vesnice Kurdějov 2021
Score: 89 Points


Stuart Pigott - International Riesling Specialist, JamesSuckling.com

source: bit.ly/3qqzo18


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